A Quick Guide To DIY Wallpaper Installation

Wallpaper is not that big in South Africa, so when I first moved to England and saw it installed everywhere, I fell in love! Back home, however, supply and demand cause wallpaper to be super expensive, with most of the designs being imported. But on a recent trip to Builders Warehouse, I found a very cool geo pattern that I knew would transform our playroom! Installing wallpaper is actually very easy, you just have to have a bit of patience, and make sure that you measure carefully. Here’s our step-by-step guide to DIY wallpaper installation!

Click the video below to see how we did it in less than 1 minute! 😉

 

You will need:

  • Wallpaper (see below calculation for the quantity)
  • Wallpaper paste
  • Large brush
  • Cloth
  • Craft knife
  • You will also need:
  • Bucket and spoon
  • Large flat surface to prepare the paper

Wallpaper quantity calculation:

Take the width of the wall, and divide it by the width of the wallpaper. Round up to get the number of drops.

For the length of each drop, take the height of the wall and add the pattern repeat onto it. This will be the length of each drop.

Now, take the length of the roll of wallpaper and divide it by the length that you got in the previous calculation – round down the answer! This will give you the number of drops per roll.

Now go back to the number of drops that you need and divide that by the drops per roll to get the number of rolls.

EXAMPLE:

My wall is 3650mm width x 2800mm height. My wallpaper is 540mm wide x 10m long, with a pattern repeat of 460mm.

2550 ÷ 540 = 4.7, so I will need 5 drops.

2800mm (height) + 460mm (pattern repeat) = 3260mm length per drop.

10m (roll length) ÷ 3260mm (length per drop) = 3.06, so I can get 3 drops out of each roll.  

5 drops needed ÷ 3 drops per roll = 1.66, so 2 rolls

BEFORE YOU START:

Prepare the wall surface by removing any nails and brushing to remove dust.

 

STEP 1:

cut wallpaper

Cut the wallpaper to size, according to your calculations above.

 

STEP 2:

spirit level

Use a measuring tape and spirit level to create a line 500mm away from the wall or edge. Walls are not necessarily straight, so you always start with the second drop, never with the first!

 

STEP 3:

wallpaper paste

Prepare the wallpaper paste according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then use the large brush to apply the paste to the back of the cut wallpaper drops, making sure that you get all the edges of the paper as well.

PRO TIP: fold the paper over on itself as you go. It won’t get stuck, promise! Fold the right edge all the way to the middle, and then fold the left edge all the way to the middle. Fold the sides toward the middle two more times, and then fold the 2 heaps with their backs against each other. This will make it really easy to just grab the top edge of the paper when you’re ready to install!

Let the paper soak for a while – this will help to prevent air bubbles from forming. Then paste 2 or 3 more drops before you start to install.

REMEMBER TO INSTALL THE SECOND DROP FROM THE EDGE FIRST.

STEP 4:

wallpaper installation

To install the paper, take the whole folded stack and climb onto your ladder (get someone to stabilise the ladder for you!). Once you’re in place, grab the top edge of the paper and let the rest drop. Then press the paper against the wall in line with the pencil line you drew in step 3. Give yourself some excess at the top; this will make lining up the next drop easier. Once this drop is in place, you can install the drop to the edge in the same manner.

 

STEP 5:

lining up wallpaper pattern

Keep installing the subsequent drops, taking care to line up patterns and keeping everything straight.

STEP 6:

wallpaper trim

Trip the top, bottom and sides with a craft knife. Be careful not to tear the paper – it is easier to do when the paper is not so wet!

wallpaper wipe down

Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth.

Happy Wallpapering!

 

How to make a colour-dipped beaded chandelier

We have done many lights on the blog that by now, we don’t know where to put them anymore! This one that Margaux did for our book a few years ago has always been a favourite though. The Beaded Chandelier-trend, inspired by the Mud Chandelier, is still going strong and this beauty is suitable for both a formal and informal setting. Play around with the colours to suit your interior, and remember to enjoy the process! g x

This post was originally written by Margaux Tait and published in October 2015.

How to make a colour-dipped beaded chandelier

I simply love re-purposing items in a clever and unexpected way! This chandelier is a perfect example of how you can put an old, outdated lamp shade to good use. All it needed was a little magic with colour dipped fabric and marbles – yes, marbles!

chandelier_notes

It’s one of the featured projects from our book, so go on and get your copy packed with 75 DIY projects! There are some more awesome colour dipping projects in there!

chandelier_step0

Firstly I have used strips of inexpensive fabric lining and rolled marbles up in them secured by a knot. This knotting technique makes beautiful strings of fabric covered beads to decorate the structure of the chandelier.

chandelier_step1

With the structure done it was now onto giving it some colour. I did the colour dipping by diluting Chalk Paint with water. I used Henrietta mixed with Provence to create an ombre effect that has a contemporary feel.

chandelier_step2

To finish off the chandelier, I did colour dipping on strings of paper clips. I used Antoinette for the top pink part and Duck Egg Blue for the bottom. Then I created an elongated tail of paper clips at the bottom dipped in Paris Grey, finishing off the piece beautifully.

chandelier_step3

This is the perfect show stopper for my home and was lots of fun to do!

chandelier_step4

Happy styling,

signature_margaux2

Create the Cutest PolkaDot Doormat Ever

Doormats don’t have to be boring. I believe that a doormat is essentially the first glimpse a guest will have of your home. So, why not make it as inviting and fun as possible? We were so inspired by Anthropologie’s doormat that we decided to make it ourselves. This little polka dot doormat is the sweetest little thing – perfect to add a welcoming touch to your front door.

polkadot rug playroom

If you fall in love with your new mat as we did, you can use this darling little rug anywhere in your home!

 

Here’s how to make the Cutest Polka Dot Mat

Difficulty: easy

Time: 20 minutes

 

You need:

  • Sisal or coir mat
  • Scissors
  • Permanent marker
  • Twine
  • Pencil, or a pointy object (a large drill bit can also work)
  • White paint
  • Small roller sponge
  • Tape measure

 

STEP 1:

The Cutest Polka Dot Doormat

Lay the mat face down on the floor and measure the mat’s width (the shorter length). Divide this measurement by two to establish the radius of your circle. Find the middle of the circle by marking the radius from the width and the length of the mat.

STEP 2:

Cut a piece of twine slightly longer than the radius. Make a loop on one end and tie the other end to the marker.

STEP 3:

Press your pencil or pointy object on the middle of the mat and place the looped twine over the pencil. Move the marker around the centre point to form a circle. Once you feel confident that the circle won’t be cut-off at one end, draw the circle.

Pro Tip: Avoid a wonky mat by keeping the pointy object and marker upright while drawing the circle.

STEP 4:

The Most Welcoming Polka Dot Doormat

Cut out the circle.

The Cutest Polka Dot Doormat DIY

Fold the mat in half to ensure that there are no odd edges. If there are, just snip them away with the scissors.

STEP 5:

Create a Beautiful Polkadot Mat

Use the edge of a small roller for the polka dots. Dip the edge of the sponge into white paint (not too much paint) and do a few tester dots on paper to determine how saturated your sponge needs to be.

Lightly press the edge of the sponge to the carpet and quickly, but carefully lift the sponge. Work your way around the mat in a grid until the dots are complete. Let the paint dry.

polkadot rug with dog

That’s it; you are ready to show off your new Polka Dot Doormat! Now head to the kitchen and bake a lot of cookies because guests will be streaming in 😅

 

Happy DIYing!

 

 

Go Bohemian with a DIY Fringed Basket

This month, we’re taking inspiration to the next level! We are remaking a few of our favourite things from our favourite stores, and Anthropologie is top of our list! This DIY fringed basket with a beautiful boho vibe couldn’t be easier, and it’s a fun project for kids – BONUS!

There are many stunning baskets from Anthropologie, so have a look at their basket collection if you need a little more inspiration.

Here’s how to create Beautifully fun Bohemian Baskets.

Anthropologie knock off Tassel Basket Tutorial

You’ll need:

  • Wicker Baskets
  • Paint (we used white, light blue and dark blue chalk paint)
  • enough fringing and/tassels* to play around with

* The amount of fringing/tassels you need depends on the size of your basket. Measure the circumference for an exact length.

Tools for the Job:

  • Glue Gun & Glue Sticks
  • Paint Roller or Brush

STEP 1:

DIY Tassel Baskets - Homeology

Paint the baskets white (but you can use any light colour you prefer). Leave to dry.

STEP 2:

Bohemian Basket Tutorial with Chalk Paint

Use a roller or a paint brush to paint the lower third of the baskets in a darker colour; we used light blue and dark blue. Let it dry.

STEP 3 (Optional):

Fringe Basket DIY

Add a thin paint strip above the coloured section. You can use masking tape as a guide, but don’t rely on it too much as it doesn’t cling to the wicker all that well. And an uneven line adds to the character of the end product! Leave the baskets to dry once more.

STEP 4:

Fun Tassel Basket Decor - Homeology

See which fringe or tassels will work best with your basket, and double check to see if you have enough. Heat up the glue gun and then add glue just below the top edge of the basket.

Pro Tip: Add glue in 200mm sections, to avoid the glue drying too quickly.

STEP 5:

Anthropologie knock off - DIY Tassel Basket

Press the end of the tassel/fringing to the glued part and work your way around until the next section.

 

nthropologie-knock-off-Bohemian-Basket-Tutorial

Repeat this process until the first fringe layer is complete.

STEP 6:

Fringe Basket DIY - Homeology

Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the second tassel layer.

Green and Blue Fringed Baskets - Homeology

Bohemian Decor with Fringed Baskets - Homeology

Remember to work in sections!

DIY Blue and White Tassel Baskets - Homeology

DIY Bohemian Tassel Baskets - Homeology

Pro Tip: Leave an excess of 20mm fringing for a neatly glued end. Finish the tip of the fringing by folding it over and glueing it down.

Anthropologie-Inspired-Wicker-Basket-Homeology

This may be the most straightforward DIY you do all year, so make the most of it by making many of these pretty baskets as Anthropologie-inspired gifts (remember Christmas is not too far away!!)

 

Happy Making!

 

 

DIY Pretty Lace Cement Hanging Planters

We were doing some research on ways to display plants in your home, and when I saw some beautiful clay planters, I knew that I had to make something like it! I have also been a bit obsessed with lace lately, so naturally, I had to experiment. We never really know if the things we try here are going to work, and this project is one of those trail-and-error types of adventures. But I LOVE the result, and I am really excited to share it with you! Here’s how I made these gorgeous lace cement hanging planters.

echevaria and polkadot rug

Lace Cement Hanging Planters

lace planters materials

You will need:

  • ready-mix Cretestone or cement (the cement will give a harder finish, but I love the colour of the Cretestone!)
  • water according to the cement manufacturer’s instructions
  • plastic lace sheet (mine is a torn placemat, but I believe anything could work here – even really lace!)
  • plastic containers of various sizes
  • cooking oil
  • planting bags
  • paper cup to keep the inside hollow
  • Harlequin Cretesealer
  • Sisal Twine

* You can buy most of these supplies online at Builder’s Warehouse – except maybe for the paper cups and lace 😉

STEP 1:

cement mixing

Place the cement mix in a bucket and add the right amount of water. Stir the cement with a spoon, or with a paint mixer attachment to your drill – my new favourite accessory!

STEP 2:

planting bags in plastic containers

Put a planting bag inside a plastic container. Play around with different shapes and sizes! Then line the black planting bags with the lace.

STEP 3:

hand holding sponge in bucket

Wipe a generous amount of oil on everything – this will make removing the plastic much easier.

STEP 4:

tub with cretestone

Carefully pour the cement mix inside and push the paper cup down in the middle, putting a weight like a stone inside to keep it in place. Use clothes pegs to keep the lace in place.

Leave the mixture to dry for 24 hours and then carefully remove the plastic layers. For extra durability, place it in the oven overnight on 60ºC to dry and harden and finish with Harlequin Cretesealer.

STEP 6:

seedling tray cut up

Fill small pots with fresh potting soil and plants. You can use small pots or cut seedling trays as a pot inside the planter. Then string up with some twine!

hanging lace planter

hanging planter with succulent

Happy Planting!

Swish around with a Contemporary Fringe Chandelier

It’s funny how past trends pop up like unexpected guests, sometimes welcome and at other times not so welcome. Fringing is one such past treasure, and mind you, a very, very welcome one. At times we feel a bit surprised at how happy we are to see fringing again because, despite the free hippy vibe that borne the style, 60s fringing was a bit drab and depressing. But, no more! Interior fringing has had a makeover and became the It Girl of many contemporary homes (Yay!).

So, dive deep into fringing and come out a swishing Rock Star with our Swishing Fringe Chandelier!

fringe chandelier materials

You will need:

  • Large Lampshade Frame
  • Small Wire Basket
  • 1.5m Twine
  • 3m of 150mm Fringing *
  • Light Cable
  • Light Bulb

*The circumferences of the lampshade frame together with the top and bottom of the wire bin will determine how much fringing you’ll need. Opt for too much fringing than too little.

Tools for the job:

  • Glue Gun & Glue stick
  • Scissors
  • Level
  • Metal saw (preferably electric, like this one!)

STEP 1:

Remove one end of the lampshade with a saw equipped with a metal blade. Then remove the top and bottom of the wire bin.

These spheres will form the frame for your cascading fringe chandelier.

Flatten sharp edges with pliers or use a metal file to smooth smaller sharp bits.

STEP 2:

Measure and knot three sections of 100mm twine from the largest hoop (the lampshade frame) to the middle hoop (the largest part of the wire bin). Repeat the process for the middle hoop towards the smallest hoop.

Pro Tip: Attach the largest hoop to the electrical cord and then knot the other hoops. This will make it easier to ensure the second and third hoops are level.

Once you’re happy with the frame, warm up the glue gun for the next step.

STEP 3:

Add the fringing by starting on the lowest hoop. The glue cools downs quickly, so it’s best to work in sections. Apply the glue to a third of the hoop then attach the fringing before moving on to the next segment. Take care not to touch the hot glue when pressing the fringing the frame.

Repeat the process for the middle and top hoop.

Neatly finish the ends by applying hot glue and folding the fringe over on itself.

STEP 4:

 

Once the electrical cord is installed, attach the chandelier and bulb. Switch on the light, bump the chandelier and watch the swishing in action! Now you know how it feels to be a designer – fun, isn’t it?

Happy Homemaking!

Oversized Wall Decor on a Mini Budget

Have you ever fell in love with a piece of fabric but didn’t think you’d have a use for it? That’s how I felt when I saw this particular shower curtain. It’s a shower curtain: I don’t need or like shower curtains I thought, but the geometric-mandala-y pattern had me obsessed, so I bought it anyway.

Luckily we love repurposing things here at Homeology, which means it didn’t take too long to figure out that the shower curtain was destined to become an oversized decorative canvas!

I adore the result and the fact that this quick wall art DIY is a divine decorating solution for a budget-bound home.

Here’s how to create Huge Wall Decor on a Tiny Budget!

Difficulty: easy

Time: 1 hour 

 

 You will need:

  • 3x 32x32mmx2.4m Pine PAR battens, cut into 2x 1.4m, 2x 1.1m (use the remaining pieces for the struts)
  • 1.5x2m Shower Curtain (Builders Warehouse has a great selection!)
  • 16x 4x50mm Wood Screws
  • Staple Gun & Staples
  • Wood Glue

Tools for the job:

  • Drill
  • Hand saw
  • Mitre box
  • Measuring tape
  • Carpenter’ Square
  • Scissors
  • Marker

 

STEP 1:

Statement Piece Wall Art on a Budget

Cut the battens or ask the supplier to cut them for you.

Measure and mark the remainder of the battens into 4x 400mm sections for the frame struts. Use a mitre box to cut the pieces at a 45 ° angle. Cut inward from your mark.

STEP 2:

Statement Piece Wall Art on a Budget

Create a corner for the frame by drilling wood screws into the 1.1m and 1.4m battens. Glue the area first for a secure hold. Use your carpenter’s square to ensure a perfect 90-degree angle.

Pro tip: Use two screws per corner for a secure frame. To avoid splitting the wood, offset them from the centre, one on each side.

Create an Oversized Wall Print on a Budget

Fortify the corner by screwing a strut in place.

STEP 4:

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the frame is complete.

STEP 5:

For the decorative cover spread the shower curtain face-down on the floor. Then place the frame on top of the shower curtain (near the bottom or top edge of the material to make keeping the design straight easier). Mark the middle of the canvas and frame at the top and bottom lengths to keep the design straight.

STEP 6:

How To make Your Own Divine Decor

Measure 100mm around the frame and cut away the excess material.

STEP 7:

DIY Wall Art on a Budget

Start in the middle of one length of the frame and fold the shower curtain so that the cut edges are concealed and protected from fraying. Use a staple gun to first staple the material to the middle of the back of the frame. Do the same for the other sides to avoid warping the pattern.

Now finish one side at a time by stapling the material from the middle outwards. Do not staple the corners yet.

STEP 8:

DIY Framed Shower Curtain Wall Art

Keep the material from tearing by folding a rectangular piece of paper or thin cardboard around the edge of the frame before covering with the material. Fold the shower curtain neatly around the corner, almost like wrapping a present. Then securely staple the edges.

STEP 9:

diy-framed-canvas-shower-curtain-bedroom

Hang up your canvas, sit back and enjoy your clever decorating 😉

 

Happy Homemaking!

 

oversized wall decor

 

Create a Cute Hanging Shelf with Belts

We’ve come to love two things: smart storage and our projects for Continental Window Fashions. So, it makes complete sense that this lovely little hanging shelf was destined for creation! Luckily curtain hardware can hold quite a bit of weight, which means that this hanging shelf is sturdy and the perfect storage solution for small spaces.

hanging shelf in home office with small wooden desk and pot plant

Here’s how to create cute storage with unwanted belts and a curtain rod.

diy hanging shelf materials, including jigsaw, belts, measuring tape, pencil, curtain brackets and plywood

You will need:

  • 6 belts
  • 2 pieces of 16mm pine plywood, cut to 200mm x 1m and 240mm x 1m
  • Paint in the colour of your choice
  • 1m curtain rod
  • 2 x curtain brackets
  • 2 x end caps

You will also need:

  • 100 grit sandpaper
  • Jigsaw or figure saw

You can buy all your supplies online from Builders Warehouse!

hanging belt shelf graphic plan

 

STEP 1:

measuring tape and pencil on plywood for shelving tutorial

Using the template above, measure the slots for the belts to slide through. The top shelf requires a longer 100mm (4”) slot for two belts and the bottom shelf a 50mm (2”) slot for one belt.

 

STEP 2:

jigsaw cutting out sections where belts will slip through

Drill holes into the slots until you have a space big enough to insert the jigsaw blade or figure saw. Then carefully cut the slots.

 

STEP 3:

painting the edges of shelving unit

Use a small sponge roller to paint the edges of the shelves in the colour of your choice. Let dry.

 

STEP 4:

sanding the shelves of the hanging shelf

Lightly sand the shelves and wipe with a clean cloth to remove any dust.

 

STEP 5:

close up of black belt of home made hanging shelf

Install the curtain brackets on the wall and hang the rod and end caps. Thread the belts through the slots and hang over the rod.

close up of hanging shelf in home office with glass cactus and belt detail

Now the hard work is done! All you need to do is decorate your beautiful shelving with your favourite items. This compact hanging shelf is ideal for small spaces. Specifically, those where you need a smart storage solution like in a home office or the kids’ playroom. Maybe, a playroom is above all the best place for your new shelf to keep little hands out of mischief.😉👍

diy hanging shelf in home office with black belt and bronze detail

Happy DIY-ing!

 

How To Turn a Bookshelf and Finials Into A Storage Ottoman

I know – that’s not something you see every day! But when Continental Window Fashions asked me to make something with finials, I immediately thought that the cute shape of a pretty finial is perfect as feet for an ottoman. And well, the bookshelf was standing around doing nothing and waiting to be useful.

west elm essex ottoman

And when I saw this lovely little ottoman from West Elm, I knew exactly what I wanted to do!

ottoman and Chinese lady cushion

Here’s how to take an old bookshelf and turn it into an ottoman with finial feet.

ottoman materials

You Will Need:

An old bookshelf (for a sturdy ottoman, it’s best to use a bookshelf made out of solid wood and not chipboard)

  • 16mm thick chipboard, cut to the same size as the face of the bookshelf (this is for the ottoman lid)
  • 100mm medium density foam, cut to the same size as the face of the bookshelf
  • 22mm coverable buttons (we used 18)
  • Upholstery thread
  • Batting to cover the top and sides of the ottoman
  • Fabric of your choice (we used about 2.5m linen)
  • Thin cotton lining (we used 1m)
  • 4x curtain rod finials to use as feet. You can use regular wooden ball finials or go for more decorative Chaucer finials.
  • 4x  44mm x 44mm wooden corner blocks to support the feet
  • Wooden screws, filler, and touch-up paint.
  • 2x 40mm brass hinges

You will also need:

  • Staple gun and staples
  • Extra long upholstery needle
  • Electric drill with a variety of wood drill bits
  • 25mm hole saw bit

 

STEP 1:

foam template

Create a grid on both the foam and the chipboard lid. We made a 4 x 3 button, or you can create your own grid based on your ottoman’s dimensions. Then mark where the buttons will go.

 

STEP 2:

grid and drill

Use a 4mm drill bit to drill holes into the chipboard lid.

 

STEP 3:

foam grid drill holes

Next, use the hole saw bit to drill holes into the foam carefully.

 

STEP 4:

linen and batting and foam

Place the foam onto the chipboard, making sure that the holes line up. Then cover the foam with the wadding and lay over the fabric, taking care that the centre of the fabric is in the centre of the foam.

 

STEP 5:

how to cover buttons

Now you’re ready to start with the buttons! Cover the buttons with your chosen fabric – a button covering tool makes this really easy. The lid of a spray paint canister works perfectly as a template!

 

STEP 6:

how to do diamond buttoning

Thread 20” of upholstery thread through each button, and then use your extra long needle to thread the button through the fabric, wadding, foam and lid.

ottoman art nouveau book

PRO TIP:

Start from the central button and work your way outward, finishing with the buttons on the edges.

STEP 7:

thread and screw driver

Use a screwdriver to get a better grip on the thread at the back, and pull until you are happy with the depth of the button at the front. Then apply staples in a zig-zag way to secure the thread. Repeat until you have secured all the buttons.

 

STEP 8:

fabric and staple gun

Frist fix the wadding and then proceed to secure the fabric at the back of the lid. Make sure that you tuck the pleats as you go!

linen and staple gun

Take special care with the pleats around the corners to ensure that they are tight and even.

 

STEP 8:

 

chinese floral fabric

Add a lining to the inside of the lid to finish it off – we used a colourful floral for a fun twist!

STEP 9:

upholsery gun

 

Cover the sides of the base with a layer of wadding and fabric, and use your staple gun to secure it. Be sure to tuck the edges in on the top edge to finish it neatly.

cotton lining staple gun

For a professional touch, add a layer of lining to the bottom as well!

Chinese floral brass hinges

Then secure the lid to the base with the hinges.

STEP 10:

ottoman support blocks

To attach the legs, first add the support blocks on the inside of the base. Then drill holes big enough to take the dowel that’s attached to the finial.

finial leg

Add a drop of wood glue to the hole before you push in the finial.

open ottoman

Place some boxes inside and use it for storage!

ottoman storage boxes

Happy DIY-ing!

Make your own diamond tufted headboard

Ideas Magazine asked me to make this headboard for their gorgeous July/August issue, and when you get the chance to make something beautiful, you have to grab the opportunity! This is not my first headboard, and it’s certainly not my last! I love headboards. Aside from providing a beautiful focal point in your room, they are super practical – especially if you like reading in bed. This one looks fantastic and costs much less than the store-bought version. And don’t be afraid to tackle this project – it is surprisingly easy to make!

Ideas Idees Magazine

Remember to get your copy of Ideas!

 

 

Here’s how to make your very own diamond tufted headboard!

To make a ¾ bed headboard, you will need:

  • Wooden base for the headboard – we used 1mx1mx19mm strand board
  • 5m fabric (we used charcoal linen)
  • 1m batting
  • 18x 22m coverable buttons
  • Thick thread (we used crochet thread)
  • Mattress needle
  • Staple gun & staples
  • Spray adhesive
  • 1mx1mx75mm thick foam
  • 1x Pine PAR 22x44mm x 2.4m batten, cut into 2x 1.2m lengths
  • 4x 3mmx32mm chipboard screws
  • 1m cotton lining

You will also need:

  • Headboard Template
  • Carpenter’s Pencil
  • Marker
  • Jigsaw
  • 22mm hole saw drill bit
  • Electric Carving Knife
  • Drill with 3mm wood drill bit
  • Scissors
  • Screwdriver
  • Measuring Tape
  • Straight Edge

STEP 1:

chipboard and jigsaw

Use the template to cut the curve at the top of the wooden base. Then give the edges a quick sanding to make sure that there aren’t any rough areas.

 

STEP 2:

foam and grid

Draw a grid of 10x20cm on both the foam and the wooden base. Then carefully mark the position of the buttons using the marker.

 

STEP 3:

drill and foam

Use the hole saw drill bit to cut the holes into the foam only. Place a piece of sacrificial wood underneath to protect your work surface!

 

STEP 4:

chipboard, foam and spray glue

Fix the foam to the wooden base using the spray adhesive. Ensure that everything is perfectly straight and allow to dry.

 

STEP 5:

chipboard foam saw

Using the curved edge of the wooden base as a guide, cut the foam to the same shape with the electric carving knife.

 

STEP 6:

foam drill

Placing the 3mm drill in the middle of each foam hole, drill a hole through the wooden base. This is where each button will be threaded through.

 

STEP 7:

headboard back

Cover the foam with the batting, securing it at the back with the staple gun. Then cut away any excess batting afterwards.

 

STEP 8:

foam scissors

Cut a small cross into the batting where it covers each foam hole. You should be able to easily see the small hole in the wood once you’ve done this.

 

STEP 9:

fabric batting

Lay the fabric over the batting, making sure that the centre of the fabric is in the centre of the headboard.

 

STEP 10:

covering buttons

Cover the buttons with fabric and attach a 40cm piece of thread to each button. Make a double knot at the back to make sure that they’re secure. A 2-litre milk bottle cap makes the perfect fabric template for a 22mm button!

 

STEP 11:

headboard buttons

Using the mattress needle, thread the buttons through the fabric, batting, foam and wood. It is easiest to do this if you place the headboard upright on the floor so that you can catch the needle at the back.

 

STEP 12:

staple gun screw driver

Wind the thread at the back around a screwdriver and pull until you’re happy with the depth of the button on the front of the headboard. Then use the staple gun to secure the thread by stapling it to the wood in a zig-zag pattern.

 

STEP 13:

pleat pinch

Tuck the pleats between the buttons as you go, making sure that they’re all facing in the same direction. Once all the buttons are in place, use the staple gun to secure the edges of the fabric at the back.

 

STEP 14:

headboard legs

Measure the height of the bed and secure the legs to the back of the headboard accordingly. Ideally, the lower edge of the upholstery should sit just above the top of the mattress.

 

STEP 15:

headboard backing

Staple the cotton lining to the back to finish off your headboard, tucking in the edges.

I hope you love your headboard as much as I love mine!

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