How to make a colour-dipped beaded chandelier

We have done many lights on the blog that by now, we don’t know where to put them anymore! This one that Margaux did for our book a few years ago has always been a favourite though. The Beaded Chandelier-trend, inspired by the Mud Chandelier, is still going strong and this beauty is suitable for both a formal and informal setting. Play around with the colours to suit your interior, and remember to enjoy the process! g x

This post was originally written by Margaux Tait and published in October 2015.

How to make a colour-dipped beaded chandelier

I simply love re-purposing items in a clever and unexpected way! This chandelier is a perfect example of how you can put an old, outdated lamp shade to good use. All it needed was a little magic with colour dipped fabric and marbles – yes, marbles!

chandelier_notes

It’s one of the featured projects from our book, so go on and get your copy packed with 75 DIY projects! There are some more awesome colour dipping projects in there!

chandelier_step0

Firstly I have used strips of inexpensive fabric lining and rolled marbles up in them secured by a knot. This knotting technique makes beautiful strings of fabric covered beads to decorate the structure of the chandelier.

chandelier_step1

With the structure done it was now onto giving it some colour. I did the colour dipping by diluting Chalk Paint with water. I used Henrietta mixed with Provence to create an ombre effect that has a contemporary feel.

chandelier_step2

To finish off the chandelier, I did colour dipping on strings of paper clips. I used Antoinette for the top pink part and Duck Egg Blue for the bottom. Then I created an elongated tail of paper clips at the bottom dipped in Paris Grey, finishing off the piece beautifully.

chandelier_step3

This is the perfect show stopper for my home and was lots of fun to do!

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Happy styling,

signature_margaux2

Swish around with a Contemporary Fringe Chandelier

It’s funny how past trends pop up like unexpected guests, sometimes welcome and at other times not so welcome. Fringing is one such past treasure, and mind you, a very, very welcome one. At times we feel a bit surprised at how happy we are to see fringing again because, despite the free hippy vibe that borne the style, 60s fringing was a bit drab and depressing. But, no more! Interior fringing has had a makeover and became the It Girl of many contemporary homes (Yay!).

So, dive deep into fringing and come out a swishing Rock Star with our Swishing Fringe Chandelier!

fringe chandelier materials

You will need:

  • Large Lampshade Frame
  • Small Wire Basket
  • 1.5m Twine
  • 3m of 150mm Fringing *
  • Light Cable
  • Light Bulb

*The circumferences of the lampshade frame together with the top and bottom of the wire bin will determine how much fringing you’ll need. Opt for too much fringing than too little.

Tools for the job:

  • Glue Gun & Glue stick
  • Scissors
  • Level
  • Metal saw (preferably electric, like this one!)

STEP 1:

Remove one end of the lampshade with a saw equipped with a metal blade. Then remove the top and bottom of the wire bin.

These spheres will form the frame for your cascading fringe chandelier.

Flatten sharp edges with pliers or use a metal file to smooth smaller sharp bits.

STEP 2:

Measure and knot three sections of 100mm twine from the largest hoop (the lampshade frame) to the middle hoop (the largest part of the wire bin). Repeat the process for the middle hoop towards the smallest hoop.

Pro Tip: Attach the largest hoop to the electrical cord and then knot the other hoops. This will make it easier to ensure the second and third hoops are level.

Once you’re happy with the frame, warm up the glue gun for the next step.

STEP 3:

Add the fringing by starting on the lowest hoop. The glue cools downs quickly, so it’s best to work in sections. Apply the glue to a third of the hoop then attach the fringing before moving on to the next segment. Take care not to touch the hot glue when pressing the fringing the frame.

Repeat the process for the middle and top hoop.

Neatly finish the ends by applying hot glue and folding the fringe over on itself.

STEP 4:

 

Once the electrical cord is installed, attach the chandelier and bulb. Switch on the light, bump the chandelier and watch the swishing in action! Now you know how it feels to be a designer – fun, isn’t it?

Happy Homemaking!

Oversized Wall Decor on a Mini Budget

Have you ever fell in love with a piece of fabric but didn’t think you’d have a use for it? That’s how I felt when I saw this particular shower curtain. It’s a shower curtain: I don’t need or like shower curtains I thought, but the geometric-mandala-y pattern had me obsessed, so I bought it anyway.

Luckily we love repurposing things here at Homeology, which means it didn’t take too long to figure out that the shower curtain was destined to become an oversized decorative canvas!

I adore the result and the fact that this quick wall art DIY is a divine decorating solution for a budget-bound home.

Here’s how to create Huge Wall Decor on a Tiny Budget!

Difficulty: easy

Time: 1 hour 

 

 You will need:

  • 3x 32x32mmx2.4m Pine PAR battens, cut into 2x 1.4m, 2x 1.1m (use the remaining pieces for the struts)
  • 1.5x2m Shower Curtain (Builders Warehouse has a great selection!)
  • 16x 4x50mm Wood Screws
  • Staple Gun & Staples
  • Wood Glue

Tools for the job:

  • Drill
  • Hand saw
  • Mitre box
  • Measuring tape
  • Carpenter’ Square
  • Scissors
  • Marker

 

STEP 1:

Statement Piece Wall Art on a Budget

Cut the battens or ask the supplier to cut them for you.

Measure and mark the remainder of the battens into 4x 400mm sections for the frame struts. Use a mitre box to cut the pieces at a 45 ° angle. Cut inward from your mark.

STEP 2:

Statement Piece Wall Art on a Budget

Create a corner for the frame by drilling wood screws into the 1.1m and 1.4m battens. Glue the area first for a secure hold. Use your carpenter’s square to ensure a perfect 90-degree angle.

Pro tip: Use two screws per corner for a secure frame. To avoid splitting the wood, offset them from the centre, one on each side.

Create an Oversized Wall Print on a Budget

Fortify the corner by screwing a strut in place.

STEP 4:

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the frame is complete.

STEP 5:

For the decorative cover spread the shower curtain face-down on the floor. Then place the frame on top of the shower curtain (near the bottom or top edge of the material to make keeping the design straight easier). Mark the middle of the canvas and frame at the top and bottom lengths to keep the design straight.

STEP 6:

How To make Your Own Divine Decor

Measure 100mm around the frame and cut away the excess material.

STEP 7:

DIY Wall Art on a Budget

Start in the middle of one length of the frame and fold the shower curtain so that the cut edges are concealed and protected from fraying. Use a staple gun to first staple the material to the middle of the back of the frame. Do the same for the other sides to avoid warping the pattern.

Now finish one side at a time by stapling the material from the middle outwards. Do not staple the corners yet.

STEP 8:

DIY Framed Shower Curtain Wall Art

Keep the material from tearing by folding a rectangular piece of paper or thin cardboard around the edge of the frame before covering with the material. Fold the shower curtain neatly around the corner, almost like wrapping a present. Then securely staple the edges.

STEP 9:

diy-framed-canvas-shower-curtain-bedroom

Hang up your canvas, sit back and enjoy your clever decorating 😉

 

Happy Homemaking!

 

oversized wall decor

 

Make your own diamond tufted headboard

Ideas Magazine asked me to make this headboard for their gorgeous July/August issue, and when you get the chance to make something beautiful, you have to grab the opportunity! This is not my first headboard, and it’s certainly not my last! I love headboards. Aside from providing a beautiful focal point in your room, they are super practical – especially if you like reading in bed. This one looks fantastic and costs much less than the store-bought version. And don’t be afraid to tackle this project – it is surprisingly easy to make!

Ideas Idees Magazine

Remember to get your copy of Ideas!

 

 

Here’s how to make your very own diamond tufted headboard!

To make a ¾ bed headboard, you will need:

  • Wooden base for the headboard – we used 1mx1mx19mm strand board
  • 5m fabric (we used charcoal linen)
  • 1m batting
  • 18x 22m coverable buttons
  • Thick thread (we used crochet thread)
  • Mattress needle
  • Staple gun & staples
  • Spray adhesive
  • 1mx1mx75mm thick foam
  • 1x Pine PAR 22x44mm x 2.4m batten, cut into 2x 1.2m lengths
  • 4x 3mmx32mm chipboard screws
  • 1m cotton lining

You will also need:

  • Headboard Template
  • Carpenter’s Pencil
  • Marker
  • Jigsaw
  • 22mm hole saw drill bit
  • Electric Carving Knife
  • Drill with 3mm wood drill bit
  • Scissors
  • Screwdriver
  • Measuring Tape
  • Straight Edge

STEP 1:

chipboard and jigsaw

Use the template to cut the curve at the top of the wooden base. Then give the edges a quick sanding to make sure that there aren’t any rough areas.

 

STEP 2:

foam and grid

Draw a grid of 10x20cm on both the foam and the wooden base. Then carefully mark the position of the buttons using the marker.

 

STEP 3:

drill and foam

Use the hole saw drill bit to cut the holes into the foam only. Place a piece of sacrificial wood underneath to protect your work surface!

 

STEP 4:

chipboard, foam and spray glue

Fix the foam to the wooden base using the spray adhesive. Ensure that everything is perfectly straight and allow to dry.

 

STEP 5:

chipboard foam saw

Using the curved edge of the wooden base as a guide, cut the foam to the same shape with the electric carving knife.

 

STEP 6:

foam drill

Placing the 3mm drill in the middle of each foam hole, drill a hole through the wooden base. This is where each button will be threaded through.

 

STEP 7:

headboard back

Cover the foam with the batting, securing it at the back with the staple gun. Then cut away any excess batting afterwards.

 

STEP 8:

foam scissors

Cut a small cross into the batting where it covers each foam hole. You should be able to easily see the small hole in the wood once you’ve done this.

 

STEP 9:

fabric batting

Lay the fabric over the batting, making sure that the centre of the fabric is in the centre of the headboard.

 

STEP 10:

covering buttons

Cover the buttons with fabric and attach a 40cm piece of thread to each button. Make a double knot at the back to make sure that they’re secure. A 2-litre milk bottle cap makes the perfect fabric template for a 22mm button!

 

STEP 11:

headboard buttons

Using the mattress needle, thread the buttons through the fabric, batting, foam and wood. It is easiest to do this if you place the headboard upright on the floor so that you can catch the needle at the back.

 

STEP 12:

staple gun screw driver

Wind the thread at the back around a screwdriver and pull until you’re happy with the depth of the button on the front of the headboard. Then use the staple gun to secure the thread by stapling it to the wood in a zig-zag pattern.

 

STEP 13:

pleat pinch

Tuck the pleats between the buttons as you go, making sure that they’re all facing in the same direction. Once all the buttons are in place, use the staple gun to secure the edges of the fabric at the back.

 

STEP 14:

headboard legs

Measure the height of the bed and secure the legs to the back of the headboard accordingly. Ideally, the lower edge of the upholstery should sit just above the top of the mattress.

 

STEP 15:

headboard backing

Staple the cotton lining to the back to finish off your headboard, tucking in the edges.

I hope you love your headboard as much as I love mine!

DIY Cement Coasters: Super Easy Tutorial

This post was first published in May 2016.

Something I’ve struggled to find is decent coasters for mugs or glasses (without spending a fortune). There are lots of standard options out there, but it’s good to have some pieces in your house that are not standard, pieces that say something about you. These cute DIY cement coasters are practical and rustic, but have a touch of glam. They’re easy to make and you can get creative with your own painted designs. Go on, give it a try!

cement coaster DIY-5

What you’ll need:

Template for mould – Download here
Cardboard, preferably with a shiny coating
Cement mix
Spray paint
Masking tape
Thin cork board or felt
Glue
Sandpaper (optional)

cement coaster DIY-10

Here’s How:

Start by printing and cutting out the template. Fold along the dotted lines and tape the hexagon mould closed using masking tape. Using a shiny card, such as the back of an old magazine, will allow the card to peel off the cement easily once it is dry.

Mix the cement with sand and water. I used a ratio of 1 part cement to 3 parts sand, with 1 part water plus a little extra to make a nice soft paste that will take the shape of the mould.

Add mixed cement into each mould to about 5mm and allow to dry for a few days. If the cement is too thin, it will be brittle and break easily. However, if thick enough it is durable, especially once the cork or felt is attached to the underside.

cement coaster DIY

Gently remove the mould once cement is dry. You can see below that normal cardboard can leave some paper residue where the cement was drying on the card. If this happens simply remove as much as you can and then use sandpaper to remove the rest. This is the side that will be the top of the coaster. You can also use sandpaper to give it a bit of a rougher texture on top and to smooth the bottom of the coaster. Be sure to brush all dust off the coaster after sanding it.

cement coaster DIY-2

Use masking tape to cover parts of the coaster that you do not want spray painted. Lightly spray, ensuring that all exposed cement is painted. Once the paint is fully dry, remove the masking tape.

cement coaster DIY-3

Use the cork template to cut hexagons, slightly smaller than the coasters, from the cork or felt. Glue the cork onto the underside of your cement coasters and they are ready to use!

cement coaster DIY-4

cement coaster DIY-8

Happy crafting!

Deborah Signature Featherly

For more creative inspiration, follow my Instagram at @Puresweetjoy or visit me at Pure Sweet Joy.

Who’s Your Daddy this Father’s Day?

Father’s Day is this coming Sunday, and what better way to thank your Dad for his awesomeness than with a R1,000 voucher from Builders Warehouse?? Just tell us Who’s Your Daddy: is it DIY Dad, Garden Dad or Braai Dad?

whosyourdaddy

#1: DIY DAD

whosyourdaddy

Does your Dad love to get his hands dirty in the garage? Is he always working on things, building and tinkering with projects around the house? Then he is most likely DIY Dad, that guy that can fix anything and everything with his tools and tool belt.

#2: BRAAI Dad

whosyourdaddy

We all know this guy! Rain or shine, he’ll make any excuse to light a fire and cook his meat the way God intended. He has every possible gadget that he could ever need for his outdoor culinary adventures. And loves to hang around the fire showing off his skill.

#3: GARDEN Dad

whosyourdaddy

You can spot his exquisite garden from the window of an aeroplane. The borders are perfect, the gravel meticulous and he takes pride in his roses and gladiolas. Not to mention the harvest from his kitchen garden!

Now tell us Who’s Your Daddy!

Click here to enter the lucky draw to win a R1,000 voucher from Builders Warehouse for your Dad this Father’s Day.

 

Simple Scandinavian Ladder

I never throw away cut-offs and wood scraps! They have a special place in my small backyard, where they often prove to be little treasure troves of pain, especially when feet find them. But they are treasures nonetheless; throw-away scraps are perfect for odd jobs, and their size and shape largely dictate what you can do with them; which is how this ladder came into the world.

This ladder is not the most original DIY, but it is practical and pretty. Initially, I left it unpainted, but when I saw this West Elm version, I was convinced white paint had to be part of my ladder.

 

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DIY DECORATIVE LADDER

Difficulty: easy

Time: 1 hour without drying between paint coats

 

YOU WILL NEED:

  • 2 x 35mmx35mmx3.0m timber battens
  • 16 wood screws
  • Cold wood glue like Alcolin, or a strong wood bonding glue
  • white water-based paint
  • Painter’s tape or masking tape

TOOLS FOR THE JOB:

  • Jigsaw
  • Drill
  • A piece of sandpaper (or electric sander)
  • Screwdriver
  • Paintbrush
  • Carpenter’s square
  • Measuring tape
  • Pencil

STEP 1:

rustic decorative adder

Measure and cut battens to 2x 1.5m pieces for the legs and 4x 0.5m pieces for the rungs.

Pro tipUse a carpenter’s square to ensure the pieces are cut perfectly square. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a wonky ladder.

STEP 2:

make a ladder

Sand down the pieces to the desired smoothness. I only sanded the edges, because I wanted a rougher texture.

STEP 3:

vintage ladder

Mark the positions of the rungs on the sides of the legs: I spaced mine 300mm apart. Remember that the rung will sit in the middle of the measurement. Drill two pilot holes for each rung, one a little higher than the other. This will prevent the wood from splitting and will ensure a stronger hold.

STEP 4:

wood ladder

Put a drop of cold glue on the edges of a rung, wait a few seconds, and press it against the inside of the leg where you drilled the pilot holes. Move the wood against each other until you feel the hold securing. Use your carpenter’s square to ensure a 90-degree angle.

STEP 5:

diy storage ladder

Fix the two screws in place for each rung and then allow the cold glue to dry.

Repeat steps 5 and 6 for each rung until your ladder is complete.

STEP 6:

timber ladder

(If you want a smoother finish, now would be the time to sand!) Use painters tape to demarcate the areas the be painted. I measured 20cm from the outside leg.

STEP 7:

make your own storage ladder

Paint the sectioned area of the ladder. Allow to dry between coats until you’re happy with the finish. Lightly sand in between coats if you want a smooth modern appearance.

Pro tip: Brush away from the painter’s tape, to avoid the paint bleeding. And don’t use too much paint.😉

STEP 8:

Remove masking tape. I love this part – it’s stressful and exciting!

Optional: Apply a clear sealant or treat the exposed wood. Wait to dry…and you’re done!

DIY storage ladder 2

Congratulations! You are now the owner of a self-made Nordic-style ladder ready to hang your towels or blankets! Well done!

Happy DIYing!

 

 

Pressing Flowers: An Easy DIY Gift for Mother’s Day

Mothers Day is around the corner, and every year, we try to come up with An Easy DIY Gift for Mother’s Day – something a little different for mom that doesn’s cost much and that the kids can make as well. This year, we chose simple pressed flowers, arrange in a mandala-shape: it’s pretty and different and great fun to make!

How To Make A Pressed Flower Mandala For Mom This Mother’s Day

You will need:

  • A variety of flowers and leaves (we even used thinly-sliced grapes!)
  • Spray glue
  • Picture frame with two pieces of equally-sized glass*
  • Spray Paint (we used Aerolac Postbox Red and Signal Green)

 

STEP 1:

Carefully place the flowers and leaves on some tissue paper, and then place some heavy books on top to press them. You can leave them for three days or so to ensure that they are nice and flat.

 

STEP 2:

Remove the glass from the frames and spray the frames in the colour of your choice. Apply a second coat if necessary, and allow to dry.

 

STEP 3:

Using the flowers, create your design on one of the panes of glass. Once you are happy with it, you are ready to stick it down!

 

STEP 4:

Clean the glass, and then apply a layer of spray-on glue to one of the panes. Carefully but quickly, recreate your pattern by placing the pressed flowers on the glass. You will most likely not be able to lift up the flowers once you’ve placed them down, so you’ll have to work quickly! If the glue gets too dry, you can just apply some more – it won’t damage the flowers that you’ve already placed down.

 

STEP 5:

When you pattern is done, place the second pane of glass over the first, and carefully place them inside the frame.

 

* I revamped old frames for this project. If you have two frames in the same size, you can use the two pieces of glass with 1 of the frames. Alternatively, have a piece of glass cut to the same size as the glass in the frame.

 

As simple as that! You can really play around with pattern based on what flowers and leaves you have. We hope that you’ll try this project with the kids for mom or granny this year – and send us your artwork, we’d love to see!

 

Happy Mothers Day!

 

Make Your Own Designer Paper Maché Lampshade

I love well-designed, beautiful, and unique products. So, when my friend sent me an image of a gorgeous lampshade and asked me if I could make one for her, I happily agreed! The lampshade was for her nursery, but it took me a few months to collect enough egg cartons, so I totally missed the deadline. Nonetheless, the lampshade was made and my new Thomas Shade, in honour of gorgeous baby Thomas, is proudly hanging in the playroom.

How to make your own designer half-dome paper maché lamp shade

You will need:

  • Egg Cartons – lots and lots of them. I used about 30 large trays, but it all depends on the size of your lampshade.
  • A packet of wallpaper glue powder
  • 1 cup cold glue
  • Yoga Ball
  • Spray paint: I used matt black for the outside and dayglow yellow for the inside.
  • Light cord and bulb

STEP 1:

papier mache lamp shade

Tear the egg cartons into smaller pieces and throw them in a bucket. Then cover them with water and let it soak for 24 hours.

STEP 2:

papier mache lamp shade

Use an electric mixer to beat the mixture to a pulp, roughly the consistency of sloppy oatmeal.

STEP 3:

papier mache lamp shade

This is where it gets awesome! Add the packet of wallpaper glue powder, and use your hands to mix it up. It feels wonderfully gooey! Or you can use a wooden spoon, but hands are much better 😉

STEP 4:

papier mache lamp shade

Let it rest for a while according to the instructions on the wallpaper glue manufacturer’s packaging. In the meantime, blow up the yoga ball and prepare your work surface: it’s going to get messy! I placed my yoga ball inside a flat bowl to prevent it from rolling around.

STEP 5:

papier mache lamp shade

When the mixture is ready, add the cold glue and mix well. Then start creating the lampshade by applying handfuls of the paper maché to the yoga ball. It sticks remarkably easy and really goes quick. You are only going to create 1 layer* so make sure that you are happy with the thickness.

REMEMBER TO LEAVE A SMALL AREA AT THE TOP WHERE THE ELECTRICAL CORD IS GOING TO BE INSTALLED.

STEP 6:

papier mache lamp shade

Allow to dry. This could take anything from 24 hours to 5 days, depending on your atmospheric moisture. My shade took 3 days, and when I took it off it was still wet on the inside and therefore very fragile. I placed it upside down inside a large bowl and left it for another 2 days.

STEP 7:

papier mache lamp shade

Once everything is thoroughly dry, deflate the ball just a little and use your hand to loosen the edges of the lampshade.

Then slowly deflate the ball, ensuring that the lampshade doesn’t stick to it.

STEP 8:

paper mache lamp shade

Use the electrical fitting as a template to ensure that the hole left at the top is large enough.

STEP 9:

Spray the inside and outside in the colours of your choice.

STEP 10:

Attach the electrical light cord, get an electrician to install, and switch on!

Happy Lighting!

* I had to make this lampshade 3 TIMES before it worked. VERY IMPORTANT TO NOTE: you can’t add a second layer when the first one is dry. The moisture from the pulp makes the first layer soggy and then the whole thing falls apart.

** Explain to your kids that they cannot play with the yoga ball while mommy is busy with the project. You’d think this is obvious, but in my experience, it isn’t 😉

 

Give A Tired Staircase A Budget-Friendly Refresh

When Ed O’Riley and his wife, Joanne bought their Plumstead just over 2 years ago, they set about renovating the 60-year old property bit by bit. The kitchen and bathroom were first on the list, but the staircase soon became an eyesore they couldn’t live with. Here’s how they gave their old staircase a budget-friendly refresh.

You will need:

  • 19mm shutter ply
  • Wall paint in the colour of your choice
  • Genkem contact adhesive
  • Flexible Wood Sealant (we used Alcolin Flexible Wood Sealant in pine)
  • Foam flooring underlay
  • Wood sealer (we used Woodoc Water-Borne Clear)

 

You Will Also Need:

  • Jigsaw or Bandsaw
  • Router
  • Sander

 

The first task was to lift the tired old carpet. When the carpet fixings were removed, it damaged the cement structure underneath, so Ed repaired the cement and painted it with universal undercoat.

Using paper, he made templates of all the treads and carefully cut the 19mm shutter ply to size. Shutter ply is a compressed wood made up of several layers of pine sheets. It is much more affordable than solid wood and gives a beautiful linear pattern on the edges. 

The edges were routered to a bullnose and then the treads were sealed using Woodoc Water-Borne sealer. It’s a clear sealer that doesn’t affect the colour of the wood too much, so it’s great to use on light wood. Each tread received 3 coats of sealer with a light sanding between coats.

Next, every tread got a piece of foam underlay fixed with contact adhesive. This ensures a soft landing on each step.

The wood pieces are then fixed on top of the underlay with contact adhesive. The gaps between the wood and the walls were filled in with Alcolin flexible wood filler. It’s applied using a caulking gun which gives great control over the amount of filler being dispensed and the exact position. It’s also very important to use a flexible filler to allow for slight movement or expansion/contraction of the wood.

Next, they painted the risers with a soft neutral grey after which Joanne added some patterns in a deeper grey with a stencil. The patterns add a fun personal touch to this neutral and light-filled staircase.

I love that this is such a clever idea that is super cost-effective while looking great. The risers can easily be repainted when they scuff, and the treads can be sanded and refinished if necessary. Here are a few things that Ed learned during this project:

PRO TIPS:

  1. Remember that the wood will need to overlap the front of the stair by at least 15mm. So when you make your templates, add 20mm to the front. This will also allow for the wastage when cutting and routering.
  2. Be prepared for A LOT of dust if you remove a carpet – especially if it’s an older house.
  3. As always with any wood project: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!

Happy DIY-ing!

 

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